bov engine longevity questions

Ok here is my question I have an 87 k5 blazer 4 speed manual. 85 and 89 Chevy trucks all with the 6.2l diesel engine. Im trying to get the most life out of my engines and injection pumps. Also are there any ways to get more fuel economy out of them.
Also my other question was oil I have been running mobil delvac and 20% Lucas in my engines does anyone else use it or has anyone had any adverse effects from using it and if you are using it how many miles have you used it for

Any upgrades worth it?

The new low sulfur fuel is lacking in lubrication so adding oil to the fuel will make the injector pump last longer. Changing the differential to one with a lower numerical ratio like a 2.73 will increase fuel mileage and make the engine last longer by reducing the rpm it turns at highway speed.

Parking your big Blazer or pickup and driving a small economy car when you don't need to haul anything will make you Blazer or pickup last longer.

For my job im carrying several roller cabinets of tools for work everyday so the truck is my daily driver

Some are using supplemental hydroxy but it does not work in freezing temps, so they go with a supplemental propane instead, increases power and fuel efficiency.

I do not use the hydroxy myself right now (planing on it) by my friends that are using the little cheapy systems they make themselves from the hardware store get 30% better milage.

http://stores.homestead.com/hydrogengarage/StoreFront.bok

http://fuel-efficient-vehicles.org/energy-news/?page_id=927

http://www.free-energy-info.co.uk/

last link has the best explanation

That would be good but with a diesel throttling the fuel and not the air like a gas engine wouldn't that cause the engine to be at a higher rev all the time when that is turned on? But if I can use it with the diesel that would really improve my 22 mpg

Taller, narrower tires also helps in getting better mileage without changing your rear-gears.
Taller tires also last a tiny bit longer on the road due to a larger diameter of tread rolling on the road. But the cost basically equals itself as the tires are a bit more expensive for the life of the tire gained.

Always be concious of the Wind Drag that your vehicle creates as you travel down the road. Pushing tons of air also drags down your gas mileage too. Even a ladder rack can act like a constant wind brake on your vehicle.

IHTH

Michael

Routine maintenance. Something often ignored by most people. Don't avoid it by saying "Its a Chevy, it can handle a few hundred more miles before an oil change."

Rust prevention is another big one with these old vehicles. Every time you take it off road, powerwash the entire undercarriage, especially the insides of the wheel wells.

Just like anything, take care of your equipment and it will take care of you.

I started up a log book for my vehicle. I use one of the green log books like the military has. I wrote the make, model, VIN, etc. on the cover and keep it in the glove box. Every time any service is performed, I write down the date, mileage, what was done, where at, their contact info, how much the service and parts were, and any other comments. I even write down when the next inspection an registration renewal are due. My log book allows me to see exactly when a certain service was performed and I can then determine when and what next is needed.

Its never too late to start a log book.

So true.

The new Corvette gets 35 mpg and that is not an Econo Car.

Oh not all Corvettes get that mpg, only the least expensive one with the smallest engine gets 35mpg but that Car is still very very fast.

As I see it the reason is due to very very low Air Resistance. That Car is shaped like a Missile and even the under body has very very low Air Resistance.

I never liked the Corvette but since finding out about the MPG and after driving a friends I now like them, not as much as I like a Porsche or Ferrari, but any Car that looks as good and is as fun to drive and is as fast as the Corvette is and also gets 35 mpg I like.

New engine technology gets a lot done on the MPG vs horsepower route. I have an older 4cyl 4X4 that I picked up thinking it would get better fuel economy than my big fuel injected V8. Yeah better, but not by a wide margin when considering the horsepower is less than half, and the total weight of the vehicle is right around half also.

I'l second the notion on those roof racks. I have a ladder rack on my van and noticed the wind drag as soon as I got on the highway the first time out with it up there. Messes with the balance of the vehicle too. Thing is, I need it for work.

Age catches up with stuff and there is not much from the 1980s which is not done better with new technology. The only stuff I see from the 1980s that is better is the small 4cly diesels which are better nowdays, just not sold in the US. Isuzu had some in the Troopers and pickup trucks which got 65MPG and were dog slow, but had some tolerable torque figures. Modern versions don't quite get the MPG but have much better horsepower and are not sold in the US. Same goes for the Ford Ranger TD.

My suburban is averaging 25 MPG winter with winterized diesel and power service white bottle. In a Montana winter

I have a '99 Silverado, 3/4 ton, 4x4, extended cab. It has a 6.0 liter gas engine. I put taller tires on it and jumped from 13 MPG to 13.5.

Worst mileage I ever got was pulling a 6000 trailer thru the mountains at 70 mph. I dropped to 10. something. When I got to 8000' altitude and no trailer it did jump to 19mpg.

It has the trailer towing package, so I'm sure it has a low final drive. Does anyone know how I can check with Chevy and find out what it is?

I use Mobil 1 oil. I've noticed it runs much better and smoother. I change it every 5000 miles. It starts much easier in the winter using this oil.

The dealer or a shop manual might tell you the gear ratio from the serial number. Some differentials have the ratio on a stamped metal tag on one of the differential bolts. Since it is a 4WD if you change the differential gear ratio in the rear you might have to change them in the front too. Probably not worth it. The number of teeth on the ring gear divided by the number of teeth on the pinion gear = the gear ratio. You can approximate the gear ratio by turning the drive shaft exactly one turn and counting the number of turns and fractions there of that the wheel turns.

Take it from someone that works in a lab for a major oil company. Don't put motor oil in your diesel. Motor oil has detergents that work well in the oil but can cause deposit buildup in the combustion chamber. ULSD has lubricity additives put in it to make up for the loss up the sulfur.

Kimber_45, have you conducted any experiments to prove this oil company's theory or is this just what the major oil company tells you? I contend that if motor oil being added to low sulfur diesel fuel damaged a diesel engine then the same oil in the crankcase of a gas engine would damage the gas engine as some oil blows by the rings and as the engine runs. But I know it doesn't cause damage with combustion chamber deposits.

My friend's fleet maintenance records prove that injector pumps with oil added to the diesel fuel last at least twice as long as without it and he has had no problems with combustion chamber deposits.

Please tell us exactly what are these secret "lubricity additives" that the major oil company uses that lubricate better than motor oil.

The lubricity additives are added by a third party. As far as the motor oil, over time there is a lot less blow by getting in the chamber than if you are adding oil to the diesel. Oil blow by will cake up the combustion chamber. I know because i run and rebuild fuel testing engines so why would you add something that will foul it up? You can do whatever you want to your fuel. Lubricity additives are put in to make up for the loss of sulfur. Motor oil has minimum levels of sulfur. But just saying why would you put something in the fuel that is not supposed to be there. And no, I'm not saying that because the "evil" oil company tells me.

The reason for adding motor oil to diesel fuel is because construction and trucking companies who keep fleet maintenance records noticed premature failure of diesel injection pumps due to inadequate lubrication as soon as the feds forced the use of low sulfur diesel.

So the secret lubricity additives your 3rd party puts in diesel fuel are inadequate. By adding 1 quart of motor oil to each 200 gallons of diesel fuel the premature failure of injection pumps stopped and they have not had any premature engine failures do to combustion chamber deposits. A friend of mine even adds clean used motor oil to his diesels for lubrication and to save on fuel costs.

Having to purchase and install an injector pump is a major expense and in a SHTF scenario a new injector pump might not be (edited to add not) available.

If anyone has a problem with combustion chamber deposits they can be easily cleaned with Sea Foam engine cleaner.


Source: http://www.seafoamsales.com/diesel-engine-faqs.html
What are the do's and don'ts of Sea Foam® use in diesel engines?

Sea Foam®, when used in Diesel fuel, cleans fuel deposits from the fuel system and carbon from inside the engine safely. It also adds lubrication and controls moisture when added to diesel fuel at one ounce per gallon. Another use for Sea Foam® in Diesel applications is cleaning fuel injectors. This is accomplished by getting engine to operating temperature then shut off. Remove the fuel filter (replace filter if needed.) Empty all diesel fuel from filter or filter housing and fill filter or housing with straight Sea Foam®. Reinstall filter on engine, making sure there is no air in filter. Start engine and let run about two minutes, then shut engine off and let sit about 5 minutes. This is called a “HOT SOAK” letting the Sea Foam® soak into the carbon. After the “hot soak” period, restart the engine and road test, driving aggressively for about 5 miles. This will clean carbon from the injectors and the combustion chamber inside the engine. Sea Foam® can also be used in oil for cleaning the crankcase. Adding Sea Foam® to your oil will clean oil deposits and varnish from your crankcase, free up sticky lifters and clogged oil control rings. Add Sea Foam® to the oil at one pint to 2.5 gallons of oil. Then drive, or run the engine for 30-60 minutes before changing oil.

Sea Foam® is very safe and effective in the ways described above. Most people that own and work on Diesel cars and trucks know that no liquids or sprays should be used through the air intake system of a Diesel engine including cleaners and starting fluids. If this is done to a Diesel engine it can cause major engine damage including Hydro-Lock or uncontrolled engine acceleration known as “RUN AWAY”. Do not add Sea Foam® to the air intake of a Diesel engine!!

If these simple instructions are followed, Sea Foam® will effectively and safely clean your fuel system, injectors and the crankcase when used in Diesel engine applications.

Ok that makes a difference. 1 quart won't affect the fuel itself when you are talking 200 gallons. Understood but I still don't see myself doing it. Hope I didn't rub anyone the wrong way, just trying to give a technical perspective on the whole idea from someone on that side of the business.

We appreciate any technical perspectives you can enlighten us with Kimber_45.

1234567's first statement was "...Im trying to get the most life out of my engines and injection pumps..." Injection pump life is a major concern with diesel engines.

what kind of temperatures cand i run these engines at towing for any extended period of time